Basstrike Fishing Blog

All bass fishing anglers know that, sometimes it will playing the role of final hit in the game. Those anglers especially keen on power fishing would more favor it.

For the crankbait types, it can be divided into shallow crankbait, medium crankbait, and deep diving crankbait from its depth. The classification is based on the length, width and angle of their own clappers, in general, the longer the length, the wider the width, the smaller the angle and the greater the dive depth. Every type of crankbait has its own mission, and of course, today we will mainly talk about the use of deep diving crankbaits, the deep diving crankbait should at least dive to the depth of 4 meters in the water, and they always shuttle with a large clapper in the deep water, and attract the bass swinging in the charming posture.

The rod, wheel and line for the deep diving crankbait pole are actually very particular about, which are even more than soft baits. A problem somewhere will not give full play to its effectiveness.

Firstly, we’ll talk about the rod: almost all deep diving crankbait require a long shot, so the rod is the most appropriate in 7.9 feet, in medium action or in the medium-fast action, with a good elasticity, and the power should depend on the size and depth of baits, MH power should be used for deep pit crankbait of more than 4 meters, and the M power for 4 meters.

You’d better use the wheel of middle and low speed ratio with deep-line cups, with good long casting, as you will often cast for 50 meters in one rod, and the wheel of middle and low speed ratio will make you operate more comfortable with facility. We’ll talk about the line in the end: usually select the 12lb fluoride carbon line, the most important thing is that it sinks in the water, and people also occasionally use nylon, especially when the bait to bite floats and there’s much underwater obstacle, or you just do not want it sink so deep.

Rock the rocker fast at the beginning to let crankbait quickly reach the attack area, and begin to slow down when you feel it touches the grass top, and at this time you must be quite concentrated, and follow the crankbait to imagine the situation under the water, stop withdraw the line at a touch of obstacles and let bait float for 2-3 seconds, then withdraw the line, suddenly the bait is sucked in a bang, and hooked!

The bass is often ambushed near the bait fish group, when the fish finds the bait fish, you can also use the deep diving crankbait to attract the fish biting the bait, and there will be a good effect. In fact, it is a very critical point in the technique that is to stop, everyone can withdraw the line, while only withdrawing the line will often not stimulate the bass to bite, but it will be easy to stuck at the bottom, so please give more opportunities for the bass to bite the bait, and also give yourself some opportunities.

The choice of color is a headache problem, and here I can only talk about my own habits. In muddy waters, I like to use the classic budgerigar green and the effect is good, and the yellow and gray color in clear waters, which is more close to the color of the fish bait.

On the size, I support the theory of big baits for big fish, while there’re occasions that many big fish eat small baits and small fish eat big baits. Sometimes the size of the fish is uncontrollable by the anglers.